The art of the chronograph

Shot onsite at the Molteni&C Singapore showroom

Though ubiquitous, the chronograph demands exceptional skill to create. These watches showcase the pinnacle of horological achievement.

Beyond the façade 

It’s clear that quiet luxury has never been a part of Audemars Piguet’s vocabulary, and we can’t help but respect the brand for its steadfast dedication to its audacious aesthetic. The current edition of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph epitomises this commitment, with its full yellow- gold case and strap, paired with a gradient gold and brown dial.

But to focus only on the showiness would do a great disservice to the timepiece’s merits. For one, as with all Royal Oak watches, the signature octagonal bezel involves an eight-step process, to ensure that each facet is brilliant and shines on the wrist, no matter where the light hits. Then, we have the signature Grande Tapisserie dial, which is created using a 100-year-old, hand-operated pantograph machine, as well as the complexity of creating the gradient colour.

We could go on with the bracelet, the bezel, the crown – but there’s insufficient column-inches, so we’ll wrap up with this: The watch also boasts a workhorse in-house calibre 4401, which features an integrated flyback chronograph movement.

Master watchmaker

The ‘Master Control’ collection was Jaeger-LeCoultre’s approach to building a watch line that would be more accessible than its ‘Duometre’ collection (which is where its extraordinary complications reside), but also less sporty than its ‘Polaris’ line, and one that offered an alternative to its iconic ‘Reverso’. Launched in 1992, it was given a new lease of life in 2020, and has since garnered a lot of love from collectors, with many praising the pared-back aesthetic and focus on quality watchmaking.

The Master Control Chronograph Calendar is emblematic of the collection’s focus on horlogerie. When it was launched in 2022, the timepiece marked the first time that the watchmaker had combined a chronograph and a complete calendar with a moonphase. 

As a testament to the skills of its designers, the timepiece is visually uncluttered and exceptionally handsome. As head of design Lionel Favre puts it, the Master Control features, “Classic, pure lines that elevate the beauty of simplicity.” 

This 2024 model comes with a two-tone blue dial with a sunray finish and red details, the in-house automatic Calibre 759 with an integrated column wheel and vertical clutch, and delivers 65 hours of autonomy.

Postmodernist icon 

The Streamliner marked a departure from H. Moser & Cie’s seriously minimalist timepieces, with their clean dials, classic cases and traditional approach to watchmaking. Launched in 2020, and clinching the top prize at that year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the Chronograph category, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph was inspired by vintage locomotives and automotives of the 1920s and ’30s.

Unlike many chronographs with subdials, this one features a central chronograph display, making it remarkably easy to read at a glance. The movement is based on the highly respected AgenGraphe chronograph calibre developed by Agenhor. Further reinforcing the H. Moser aesthetic is the fume blue dial, which amplifies the desirability of the timepiece – as will the limited edition of only 100 pieces.

Summer of ’69

Singer Reimagined, an offshoot of the renowned California-based Singer Vehicle Design (celebrated for their meticulous Porsche 911 restorations), was created to honour legendary vintage timepieces. Its ‘1969’ collection is a tribute to some of the world’s most emblematic and groundbreaking timepieces of that era, including the Zenith El Primero chronograph, which is, without doubt, one of the most important movements launched in the past 60 years.

Like the Streamliner, the 1969 Chronograph Black SR201 features the AgenGraphe calibre, but it is also a fantastic showcase of how two brands can do such different things with the same movement. The 60-hour chronograph function takes pride of place at the centre of the dial, while the hours and minutes are read from the rotating discs at the bottom of the dial.

Sporty chic

The year was 2015, and the watch industry was abuzz with the news that Patek Philippe had launched a pilot’s watch, the Travel Time 5524G. I distinctly recall the heated discussions at Baselworld regarding the brand’s story that it was inspired by two siderometer wristwatches from 1936. Some tried to dig up the tenuous historical link, while others lauded the brand’s venture into seemingly uncharted territory. Nine years later, the brand is clearly having the last laugh, having released the newest addition to its ‘Calatrava Pilot’ collection – which has proven to be popular with a younger demographic. There are obvious nods to its 1936 predecessor, including the hour angle dial, where the hand travels around the dial over 24 hours.

For the first time, the collection introduces a chronograph function. Wrought in white gold with a sunburst blue-grey dial, the watch features four central hands that read the local and home time; an upper counter that reveals the date; while the chronograph counter at 6 o’clock features a flyback chronograph. It’s the brand’s attention to detail that makes it even more desirable, and despite the sporty nature of the timepiece, it’s certainly not one we want to be wearing for a workout. 

Green’s back

It’s no secret that there were long (virtual) waiting lines for the likes of the Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe Aquanaut during the pandemic. But there was another watch that was quietly catching the attention of discerning collectors – those who were not just looking to make a quick buck. That’s the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, the brand’s luxury sports watch launched in 2016.  We won’t be surprised if collectors are clamouring to get their hands on this latest version, with its sunburst enamel green dial and rose-gold case. While green was the watch dial colour in 2021, its popularity clearly endures. 

Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director for Vacheron Constantin, explains, “The Overseas watches are a collection that lends itself admirably to new colour experiments. It made sense to ask whether the men’s timepieces could also adopt colours other than white, black and the emblematic Overseas blue. We chose a deep green exuding hints of plants and forests. A sort of call to nature that makes a perfect fit with the overseas spirit of travel and exploration.”

As with all the Overseas watches, the watch comes with a Poinçon-de-Genève certified movement, as well as three different straps for increased versatility: full gold, green leather, and green rubber.

At the Vanguard

When Franck Muller launched the ‘Vanguard’ collection a few years ago, some saw it as the less prestigious sibling of the famous ‘Cintrée Curvex’ line. But the Swiss watchmaker has steadily proved detractors wrong, delineating each collection with unique features and identities. The Grande Date Chronograph perfectly suits the edgy, slightly rebellious identity of Vanguard, with its open-worked dial where even the chronograph counters and date window are see-through. Unsurprisingly, given that it’s on full display, the movement is beautifully finished. At 44mm, it’s an unapologetic attention grabber, and this rose-gold version is sure to turn a few heads.

The timepiece also features an in-house automatic movement, its complexity revealed by Mr Franck Muller himself, who once said: “Not many people realise that a chronograph is actually one of the most difficult mechanisms to create.”

Read next:

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• The interview: Franck Muller CEO Nicholas Rudaz on introducing New Novelties 2024 and maintaining the maison’s integrity through the years