Inside Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, where timepieces push boundaries with bold, vibrant designs and cutting-edge technology

Bolder, more vibrant and technologically advanced—the 2025 edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva unfolded with exciting new novelties from the most renowned maisons in horology. From colourful watches and dazzling timepieces adorned with precious gemstones, to ultra-thin movements and innovative complications, each piece embodies the fair’s long-standing reputation for precision, artistry, and unmatched craftsmanship.

Amid the chatter surrounding the Trump administration’s new tariff regime—set to impact an industry already grappling with declining global sales—the atmosphere at the Watches and Wonders showcase remained undeniably upbeat.

Boulevard had the privilege of experiencing the world’s largest watch fair, held at the Palexpo convention centre. The event brought together over 60 of the world’s leading watchmakers, including names like Bovet, Chopard, Grand Seiko, Hermès, Bulgari and Vacheron Constantin, offering an exclusive look at the latest in horology.

Inside the Piaget showroom at Watches and Wonders Geneva.

A smaller silhouette, a bolder expression

A trend we noticed throughout the fair is that watches are becoming decidedly more compact. However, their dials have taken on a bolder, more striking presence. Maisons did not shy away from using vibrant colours. Take Bovet’s Virtuoso V for instance, featuring a turquoise, hand-guilloche dial, made using seven layers of lacquer, fired in a hundred-degree oven and polished to perfection. The result is a beautiful work of art that changes in colour when viewed from different angles.

Virtuoso V Turquoise Guilloché, by Bovet.

Maisons like Hermès and Rolex have embraced colour as well. For instance, the Rocabar de Rire, a.k.a. the horse watch from Hermès’ Arceau collection, showcases the brand’s artistry and savoir faire. This hand-painted, limited-edition watch (available in just 12 pieces worldwide) features a portrait of a horse with a retracting tongue, revealed using an on-demand impulse animation. Artisans have also adhered horsehair into the dial, adding a touch of authenticity to this playful work of art.

Arceau Rocabar de Rire, by Hermès.

Chopard takes this bold trend to another level by marrying haute joaillerie and haute horology, with a range of jewellery watches set with precious gemstones. One highlight is this showstopper, which features a light blue mother-of-pearl dial paired with the deep green hue of the two 4.89-carat emerald-cut emeralds. It is further enhanced thanks to the brilliance of the pave-set brilliant-cut diamonds, while 61-carat pear-shaped and 3.53-carat brilliant-cut diamonds adorn the bezel.

Jewellery watch set with 4.89-carat emerald-cut emeralds and 61-carat pear-shaped and 3.53-carat brilliant-cut diamonds, by Chopard.

Precision and mechanical ingenuity

The 2025 Watches and Wonders also saw the launch of the world’s most complicated watch by Vacheron Constantin, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Eight years in the making, this timepiece integrates 41 complications, 13 of which are patented by the maison. Among its functions are several astronomical complications, chiming mechanisms, perpetual calendars, chronographs and more. The Solaria boasts horological ingenuity not only for the number of complications but for their integration into a fully wearable format. The wristwatch measures just 45mm in diameter, representing a major technical achievement in terms of size, mechanical coordination and functional usability within a single movement. Top: Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, by Vacheron Constantin.

Inside the Vacheron Constantin showroom at Wonders and Wonders Geneva.

Piaget also displayed its technical virtuosity with Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, an ultra-thin watch that pushed the boundaries of horological ingenuity. At just 2 millimetres thick, it almost disappears from sight when viewed from certain angles. Despite its minimal profile, the timepiece houses a sophisticated tourbillon movement, demonstrating how Piaget blends technical complexity with refined design to create a truly groundbreaking piece.

Left: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon. Right: Altiplano Ultimate Concept. Both by Piaget.

Another watch that is amazingly thin yet highly complex is Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra, which measures just 1.7mm. This timepiece holds the current record not only for its slim profile but also for the level of complexity achieved within such a compact structure. Crafted from sandblasted titanium, the watch incorporates a movement that is integrated directly into the caseback, eliminating the traditional separation between movement and casing. This engineering breakthrough allows it to maintain structural integrity without sacrificing functionality.

Octo Finissimo Ultra, by Bulgari.

Against the backdrop of changing world order, the novelties and exclusive launches at the 2025 edition of Watches and Wonders felt buoyant, optimistic and future-looking. From ultra-thin engineering to gem-set artistry, they capture how far watchmaking continues to evolve and how each maison pushes the bounds of horological ingenuity.

Go further with the Watches and Wonders 2025.

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