The review: How Breguet’s Type XX Chronographe redefines the tool watch

Gravitas. It’s an underutilised descriptor. Yet here, armed with Breguet’s 18K Rose Gold Type XX Chronographe 2067, arguably one of the maison’s finest releases in some time, other words feel inadequate.

Sure, there’s an immediacy to its allure—driven by the balance of design and use of highlighted materiality and colour. But there’s also the history within the experience; the 2067 crafted on what has gone before, notably Breguet’s direct aviation links and the debut of the Type 20, produced for the French Air Force in 1954.

It’s this direct military association and, further, Breguet’s broader alignment to the literal takeoff of flight (as an early aircraft designer) that envelops, adds layers and brings us to this position of gravitas—not something often associated with so-called ‘tool’ watches. As someone fortunate to spend time with some rather exemplary pieces, I’m genuinely not overstating things by claiming this 18K rose-gold expression ignites a sense of romance for tool watches—albeit elevated and refined

The Breguet 18K Rose Gold Type XX Chronographe 2067 is an elevated and refined tool watch.

Right out of the box, the 2067 isn’t blingy—it’s burnished. The 18k rose gold case—measuring a robust yet highly wearable 42mm—feels downplayed, thanks in part to its blue alignment, and provides a utilitarian, almost stealthy characteristic. This isn’t a show pony; no, this is a working machine—granted, one dressed in black tie. On the wrist, it hugs comfort-ably with a slightly curved lug profile, a supple alligator strap (on rapid interchange system) with 18K rose-gold pin buckle. A blue Nato strap with white fringing is also offered, though we don’t know why you would?

The gold case also generates some warmth—never ostentatious, unmistakably premium, as grafted to a rotating bi-directional bezel inlaid with (in a material first for Breguet) ceramic blue.

Know this is a timepiece that makes you glance at your wrist—and often. The sunburst blue dial is a lesson in artful, nuanced creation that dances under differing lights and boasts a three-register layout echoing the post-war Type XXs—the 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock is a hard nod to those flying days, even if the over-all feel is balanced, proportional, proudly contemporary.

Elsewhere, luminescent Arabic numerals are clean, legible, and retain a touch of heritage charm, with rose-gold luminescent hands and date window tightly held between 4 and 5 o’clock. The latter informs our only real slight—it feels forced and you do question the need. Thankfully, it doesn’t detract.
As for the mechanics, the engine room, it’s here this piece further (ahem) earns its wings.

The in-house, self-winding calibre 728 (with 60-hr power reserve) was designed specifically for the new Type XX that we first experienced in steel at a lavish 2023 Parisian dinner. The famous flyback chronograph function—a once vital tool for pilots—is, let’s be honest, a joy for enthusiasts. Pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock to reset the chronograph in one buttery-smooth motion is mechanical ballet.

The Breguet Type XX Chronographe is reimagined in a rose gold case and sapphire crystal case back.

Spy the column wheel through the sapphire caseback; so too, some fine craftsmanship and finishing (chamfering, snailing, perlage) with a darkened gold rotor that presents like the wing of an aircraft. Again, the movement proves an element made not only to perform—and perform damn well—but to be admired.

After some time with the Type XX Chronographe 2067—and it’s here we must thank our friends at Swiss Concept—what’s surprising is its versatility. This is a piece that pairs with all: embracing current trends to dress down classic horology against denim and a t-shirt; equally at ease in elevating sharp tailoring. The gold should present as dressy but the tool watch DNA and func-tional layout make it feel like a working instrument. It’s like wearing a tailored bomber jacket—purpose-built but undeniably stylish.

It also wears both lighter and slimmer than the specs suggest—thanks to short lugs and a contoured mid-case—making it more comfortable than many modern chronographs.

The Type XX Chronographe 2067 is a timepiece that doesn’t clamour for attention. It whispers its credentials. It is a watch that you’ll reach for, and often, as it easily adapts to a given life and broad style—a timepiece that’s both vintage and forward-facing, military and metro, and one that proudly wears a sense of gravitas.

With thanks to Swiss Concept Australia.

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