The rarefied art of crafting high jewellery

Haute joaillerie—or high jewellery—represents the pinnacle of craftsmanship, savoir-faire and exclusivity. We discover the stones, techniques, and vision that elevate jewellery to this rarefied dimension.

Shot on location at the Rolls-Royce Singapore showroom.

Every July, the jewellery world turns its gaze to Boucheron, eagerly anticipating the unveiling of its Carte Blanche (French for ‘blank canvas’) high jewellery collection. This event is particularly significant, as Boucheron presents two high jewellery collections each year. The January collection features more commercial pieces, while July is reserved for the artistic visions of Claire Choisne, the maison’s innovative creative director.

2024’s Carte Blanche collection, ‘Or Bleu’, showcased Choisne’s daring use of materials such as black sand and 3D-printed obsidian, creating a stunning, water-inspired collection that challenged traditional jewellery making. As Choisne aptly puts it, traditional high jewellery is akin to the little black dress that everyone wears—whereas the Carte Blanche is for those who crave something truly unique.

While this collection may diverge from classical notions of high jewellery, it embodies the essence of the craft: an avant-garde approach that elevates craftsmanship and materiality into an artistic vision. Jewellers such as Chopard, Hemmerle, and Dickson Yewn have similarly redefined the field, using unconventional materials including aluminium, wood, and ceramic to transform jewellery into a canvas for creative expression. Chopard, for instance, incorporates coloured titanium into its nature-inspired designs, enhancing their vibrancy and realism. These approaches allow craftsmen to transcend their roles as artisans and emerge as true artists. 

Left: High jewellery necklace set with diamonds and peridots, by Cartier; Ghost exterior in Mustique Blue. Right: ‘Forget Me Not’ necklace and rings set with sapphires and diamonds, by Harry Winston; Ghost rear picnic table in grey-stained ash wood. Top: ‘Diva’s Dream’ high jewellery necklace, by Bulgari; Ghost chrome air vents with grey-stained ash wood.

Each high jewellery piece typically tells a story—whether it’s the celebration of a maison’s storied legacy, a tribute to history and cultural movements, or an ode to nature.

Take Bulgari’s 140th anniversary ‘Aeterna’ collection, released in 2024, which presented a showcase of more than 500 pieces of high jewellery, watches, and accessories. Each creation, from necklaces to rings, embodied a moment in Bulgari’s storied history, a testament to its unparalleled craftsmanship, and an expression of the brand’s passion for coloured gemstones.

Among its breathtaking gemstones, the pièce de résistance was the Serpenti Aeterna necklace, set with 140 carats of exceptional Type 2A diamonds—true showstoppers that embodied the maison’s dedication to the rarest and most remarkable stones.

It should come as no surprise, therefore, that high jewellery collections often take years to bring to life, given the rarity and size of the gemstones involved. When Van Cleef & Arpels launched its now-iconic ‘Treasure of Rubies’ collection in 2019, the maison revealed it had spent a decade sourcing the stones. 

‘Bird on the Rock’ brooch set with a yellow diamond, by Tiffany & Co; Ghost bespoke 18-speaker audio system with a 1,400-watt amplifier.

It’s worth noting that while high jewellery has long celebrated the ‘big four’ gemstones (diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies), today’s designers embrace a wider spectrum of coloured stones, turning them into a jewelled palette—as showcased in previous Boulevard features dedicated to multi-coloured gemstones. Spinels, tourmalines, aquamarines, and other vibrant gems infuse creations with striking depth and dimension.

In an era increasingly defined by lab-grown diamonds, there is a renewed appreciation among high-jewellery houses, as well as collectors, for gemstones forged by nature over millennia. The rising prominence of vividly coloured stones in high jewellery underscores this trend, celebrating the beauty of nature’s artistry. Take, for example, the high jewellery pieces featured in this shoot: the Cartier necklace is adorned with peridots – yellow-green gemstones formed in lava and meteorites – while Bulgari’s ‘Diva’s Dream’ necklace places a spinel at its heart.

The Difference Between Fine and High Jewellery

Jewellery can be broadly categorised into two main types: fine and high jewellery. Fine jewellery collections are more accessible and often mass-produced, albeit frequently hand-finished. Think of iconic collections like the Cartier ‘Love’, the Boucheron ‘Quatre’, or the Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Alhambra’—luxurious yet wearable pieces that don’t necessarily feature the rarest gemstones or intricate craftsmanship. This represents the ready-to-wear side of jewellery.

In contrast, high jewellery is akin to haute couture: each piece is typically one-of-a-kind, showcasing a maison’s finest craftsmanship and artistic vision. These creations require meticulous handwork, often taking four or five hundred hours to complete. At Van Cleef & Arpels’ workshop in Paris’ famed Place Vendôme, master artisans, known as ‘Mains d’Or’ (literally, ‘hands of gold’, but perhaps more appropriately: ‘golden touch’), dedicate decades to honing their skills. Apprentices may spend years perfecting a single technique, such as polishing, before advancing to more complex arts like wax moulding and stone setting.

Left: ‘Plume de Paon’ necklace and ring set with tanzanites and diamonds, by Boucheron. Right: Ghost seating in ‘Duality Twill’.

Exquisite craftsmanship extends even to the hidden parts of a piece—turn it over, and the meticulous finishing is often astonishing. Some maisons, such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier, even set stones on the underside of their designs, simply because they can.

Despite their artistry, and perhaps unlike some of the more extraordinary creations in haute couture, high jewellery pieces are designed to be worn and celebrated. Comfort is paramount; no matter how elaborate a design, it must feel effortless on the wearer. Much like the little black dress.  

With thanks to Rollys-Royce Motor Cars. Go further with the Rolls-Royce Ghost Series II.

Read next:

• Beyond rarity: Why coloured diamonds are catching the eye of high-jewellery collectors
• Icons: The signature emblems of the world’s greatest jewellery maisons